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Etruria -  Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy  

di Mary Jane Cryan

     Donna Stiles The Maremma guide

Excerpts from Mary Jane Cryan’s

Etruria -  Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy   

Preface

During the 35 years that I lived in Rome a succession of English  newspapers and magazines provided the international community with information and news.  For each of these, in turn, I collaborated as a writer turning out regular articles about art, antiques and lifestyle.  In those pre-computer and internet days, I pounded out my articles on a typewriter with carbon paper inserted. Mistakes were corrected with a rubber eraser or whitener before racing into the editorial office by bus or subway to hand in my copy before deadline.  

Russia was home during the Perestroika years where, besides being a “trailing wife” in the Italian business community, I scouted out information and cultural news as staff writer for the first Western-style magazine.  Members of the international community often thanked me for hints that helped make Moscow life easier: from the location of new restaurants to the best places to purchase paintings, sculptures, detergents and food. 

Returning to Italy we traded life in the big city for a calmer lifestyle and larger home in the Viterbo province where we knew there was an abundance of thermal baths, Etruscan sites and local traditions. These beckoned temptingly to be explored and enjoyed but finding them was another matter.  Directions and information were as difficult to uncover as they had been in Soviet Russia! 

As I scoured salvage dealers in surrounding towns for fireplaces and tiles to restore the old palazzo we had purchased, I gathered information  and insight. Thanks to  local historians and new friends I discovered fascinating stories about the area.  Until recently, the only books that gave attention to this part of central Italy were those specialized in archeology. Most English guidebooks ignored the area completely, leading new residents to believe that “civilization” stopped at the northern Roman suburb of Olgiata. 

The fourth in a series about this area, Etruria-Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy wishes to fill this void by giving new information about  a part of Italy still to be discovered by mass tourism.  Some of the essays, originally written for local Italian magazines, have been adapted for English language visitors. Others were developed from culture lectures presented to university students and cruise ship audiences. A few stories describing local traditions and festivals have been revised and included to show how little life in Northern Lazio has changed over the years.  The essays that narrate the area’s little known international connections and history are the fruit of original research and long hours of digging through archives in Italy, England and Ireland to discover information not found in available guidebooks.  Visitors’ enjoyment will be increased when they have a deeper understanding of the area’s background and the people who lived here before us.

Inspiration comes from Georgina Masson’s almost  anthropologic interest in documenting local customs and life. It is only fitting to follow Masson’s lead because it was her Companion Guide to Rome and a sturdy folding map that helped me make the city of Rome my own when I first arrived in Italy in 1965.  

TABLE   OF  CONTENTS

                  Preface    

                             Itineraries

  • Etruscan Places and Faces
  • The Tombs of Tarquinia                  
  • Miraculous  Etruria                          
  • A Day Ashore at Civitavecchia         
  • Mysterious  Sites  of Northern Lazio 
  • Connoisseur’s Guide to Viterbo       
  •  Searching for the Stuarts          

      Influences

  • Early Americans in Etruria         
  • Spanish Tuscany                            
  • Irish Lords  of Northern  Lazio          
  • Irish Connections in Central Italy
  • Vetralla - An International Town    
  • Strange Rites of Spring      

      Treasures

  • The Treasures of Foro Cassio    
  • Castles  for Connoisseurs     
  • Castles of Etruria
  • Historic Gardens of Etruria 
  • Modern Gardens 
  • A Dozen Nature Reserves  
  • Half a Dozen Unusual Museums
  • Safeguarding  Minor Monuments 

        People

  • Women Saints and Sinners              
  • Hot Water People 
  • That Wild Princess from Viterbo 
  • Rediscovered Sketches of Etruria  
  • Escape from Vetralla’s Prison Camp  
  • The Boston Connection  
  • An Old Palazzo in Etruria – the sequel  

                         How to Order

 Order your signed copy  of Etruria  Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy

Click here to purchase a signed copy.  Payment options include  paypal and US $ check 

Cost 12 euro with free postage within Italy.  

 Since cost of postage to USA is 8,70 euro  for  one or two books, make it worthwhile and buy  copies of any 2 books  (Etruria, Olio e Ricordi in Cucina, Travels to Tuscany ) for 29 euro or $38.50 . Includes  first class air mail to USA.

To order an e-book copy  go to http://www.edizioniarcheoares.it/etruria

 

 First Reviews  for  Etruria  travel, history and itineraries in Central Italy

Here’s  what they are saying  about Mary Jane Cryan’s latest book 

 

       In the Tyrrhenian coastal part of Central Italy known as Old Etruria, Mary Jane Cryan is a consummate forager--not for mushrooms (though we who live here find plenty of those), but for places and people in time. In Cryan's newest book, Etruria: Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy, gardens, castles and fountains hold pride of place. But in addition Cryan, who is a veteran journalist, researcher, lecturer, writer of guidebooks and weaver of historical tales, introduces us to forgotten heros and heroines and a few rotters.  
I could not resist turning immediately to the chapter entitled Early Americans in Etruria. Who knew that Bernard Berenson had called at the fabulous Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, an hour north of Rome, while on a    scouting mission to purchase masterpieces for Isabella Stewart Gardner? 
 
       Not all those to whom she introduces us are as well remembered as art dealer and connoisseur Berenson, but they are well worth becoming new acquaintances. At about that same time in the gaslight era when Berenson was snapping up masterpieces for the woman who gave Boston its extraordinary museum, Don Alfonso, heir to the Doria Pamphilj fortunes in Rome and Genoa rented that very palazzo, into which he installed his gorgeous American mistress, Frances Baldwin of Boston. Frances, who was as beautiful as she    was scandalous, had caught the princely eye in Rome after she had dumped her estranged husband because he had shot and killed her lover in Monte Carlo. As Cryan informs us, so exotic was all this that Gabriele D'Annunzio, who would never shrink from scandal, gave Frances and her daughter roles in his 1895 novel, Le Vergine delle Rocce.

       Old Etruria, with its extraordinary towns like Civita di Bagnoreggio and Marta, its volcanic lakes and countryside scattered with ancient Roman ruins, still remains surprisingly and delightfully off the usual tourist routes. For those with a taste for discovery, here is your elegant road map, with an evocative cover painted by the American artist Patricia Glee Smith, plus a wealth of interesting photos, including a fat insert in color; links to helpful websites; and, not least, a useful index. 
Judith  Harris

 

        Etruria - Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy possiede la rara caratteristica di poter esser inquadrato fra le guide romanzate. Tutti i saggi, infatti, pur basandosi su una rigorosa ricerca storica e bibliografica, sono allo stesso tempo percorsi da una notevole carica di verve, talvolta persino da una nota di ironia. Questi tratti conferiscono al testo un ritmo veloce e appassionante, che rende la lettura piacevole ed interessante a vari livelli e per un pubblico eterogeneo. Luoghi e personaggi sono rappresentati in modo vivace e coinvolgente, conferendo così al libro un taglio romanzesco, oserei dire persino cinematografico.Ciò che colpisce altresì nell’autrice è la profonda ed onesta volontà di salvaguardare un patrimonio culturale e storico di notevole interesse, ma non noto a tutti. Quest’ultimo aspetto ci rende debitori nei confronti dell’autrice, per aver dedicato tempo e ricerche a monumenti tanto affascinanti, ma non frequentemente visitati. Non resta altro, sulla scorta di questa intrigante lettura, che mettersi in cammino e vedere personalmente tutti questi luoghi. Le località mai visitate saranno una sorprendente scoperta e quelle già note potranno rivelare una nuova epifania di senso.- Giuliana Mattiello 

 

        Etruria  is a book is for those who have fallen in love with Rome and have come back to explore the surroundings. It is for the bookworm looking for his/her own Under the Tuscan Sun.  It is for armchair historians who want more to read in the setting sun precisely where that history took place.

For those who don't just like to get of the beaten path, but those who actively pursue it-- whether via conversation or reading.  Mary Jane’s  book is for those who want to infuse themselves with Etruria, much as Georgina Masson's book  (Companion Guide to Rome) was for those who loved saturating themselves with Rome.  It is clearly written  with an easy flow, like  a path where one encounters old friends and old places along with new. Erica Firpo  

 

        Il libro Etruria travel, history and itineraries in central Italy  di  Mary Jane Cryan, conferma  la  difficoltà da parte dei locali ad apprezzare e valorizzare l’ingente patrimonio storico-culturale della Tuscia. Mary Jane, di origine irlandese, vede il territorio con un’ottica completamente diversa rispetto a chi ci è nato e vive, cogliendo gli aspetti più caratteristici e peculiari di una terra tanto ricca quanto poco valorizzata. Il testo, in lingua inglese, consente una visibilità internazionale al lavoro che è completato da una scelta di immagini emblematiche e suggestive. Il libro presenta, inoltre, itinerari turistici che permettono una valorizzazione del territorio favorendo anche ricadute economiche e occupazionali. Congratulazioni a Mary Jane insieme all’augurio di continuare nella sua opera divulgativa e formativa indispensabile per tutelare i beni culturali e il paesaggio della Tuscia.

Andrea Natali

  •  Mary Jane -  The book arrived this week--courtesy of MJB!--and it is just beautiful. I love the cover and the photographs, but best of all is the opportunity the book offers to explore so many fascinating historical, cultural, and geographical pathways with you. You are an insider who somehow always manages to see with fresh eyes. Probably no Italian could have written it, but neither could it have been accomplished without your many years of looking, asking questions of people, texts, and objects, and openness to your rich surroundings. Brava! Bonne NYC
  • MJI- thanks for your kind words about my (quite minor!) contribution to your book. It is a visual pleasure and lovely reading as well.  We met some Italophiles today …and we gave them your website, and told them about your
    writing, etc.  They are eager to learn more, So your fame spreads !   I hope you take great pride in your successes: your work brings pleasure to many.
    Mary Jane  -  Boston

  •  I'm enjoying both your books! Thank you so very much.    Judith , Trevignano, Italy

  • The book is wonderful ....And thank you so much for the lovely personal inscription, and most of all for including my images in the book as well ...They look great as do all of the other images ....Wendy and I are both looking forward to reading and enjoying and learning more about our favorite tie place on the planet ...Your time and hard work has certainly paid off ... The book looks fantastic ....Thank you once again for allowing us to be a small part of EtruriaWendy  & Rob - Pebble Beach, California

  • I've been reading your book with interest and pleasure, and recommended it today to a friend Liza from Anguillara. Justin, Civita Castellana

All inclusive holidays to Italy     

Latest Book - Mary Jane Cryan

Etruria - Travel, History and Itineraries in Central Italy

order your copy here

 

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