Favorite Drives

A car is very important for independent travelers wishing to see the countryside, explore villages and towns and perhaps search for the house of their dreams. Renting a car (we recommend Auto Europe) makes it easier to move family and luggage from one city to the next and to experience the "strade bianche" or country roads. A car is a must if you are planning on visiting relatives, shopping for wine and olive oil or just to be independent.

Here are Six Favorite Drives through our beautiful land that avoid using the Autostrada. More delightful day trips are described in my books “Affreschi-Exploring Etruria” and “Travels to Tuscany and Northern Lazio“. See Our Books Page for information on how to order or click here.

SS means Strada Statale, state road; SP Strada Provinciale means provincial road.

1. The Etruscan Triangle is an area of rolling hills dotted with Etruscan necropoli, acqueducts and the hilltowns of Tarquinia, Tuscania and Vetralla. Via Aurelia bis connects the sea road ( SS1 Via Aurelia) at the 100th km. with Vetralla. Nearby is one of the most important Etruscan necropoli: the cliff tombs of Norchia..

 The SP.Vetrallese connects Vetralla to Tuscania winding through virgin territory. There are no built up areas, no towns, no billboards - only forests, distant castles and white roads lined with sentinel cypress trees. Signs along the road warn of crossing cattle, sheep and wild boar .

3. From Viterbo take the Monti Cimini road , the SP Cimina to visit the little “V” towns of Vignanello, Vallerano and Vasanello. There are magnificent views over the Tiber valley and into Umbria. Stop in Canepina to see the museum of farm life and to eat the local “paglia e fieno” pasta. Slow-downs may occur due to tractors with harvested hazelnuts, olives or grapes.

4. Canino, close to the Tuscan border, is famous for olive oil, Bonaparte connections, Etruscan and Roman sites at Vulci. Crossing into Tuscany further up the Via Aurelia garden fans can visit the Tarot Garden (below). Stop at Manciano and Pitigliano to purchase local cheese and to stock up on the area’s great wines. 

photo: Gigi DeGrandis

 5. From Viterbo along the SS. 2 Via Cassia to Bolsena and Acquapendente and the towns of Civita di Bagnoregio and Orvieto .

Roads have changed little since horse-drawn coaches used them, although luckily the bandits have disappeared. The calanchi hills and scarce traffic along with differences in architecture and landscape denote the passage from areas once under Papal rule and those under the Archdukes of Tuscany. Stop at the Customs House in Centeno for lunch and to see the Galileo plaque.

Another interesting town is Bolsena with the catacombs and basilica of St. Christine. Visits are also possible to the elegant Palazzo Del Drago, above.

6. From the castle and lake of Bracciano to the seaside castle of Santa Severa taking the road over the Tolfa hills. Northern Lazio is dotted with picturesque ruins and castles such as Monterano (abandoned in 1799) and Cencelle (a medieval Pompeii). Since Tolfa is about 40 minutes from Fiumicino airport, it is a convenient –and memorable- place to spend your last night in Italy. Click here to see our favorite place to stay.

photo: Norman Roberson

The Frangipane fortress perched high above Tolfa’s center

   A car is very important for independent travelers wishing to see the countryside, explore villages and towns and perhaps search for the house of their dreams. Renting a car (we recommend Auto Europe) makes it easier to move family and luggage from one city to the next and to experience the "strade bianche" or country roads. A car is a must if you are planning on visiting relatives, shopping for wine and olive oil or just to be independent.