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The Royal Cardinal’s Route

What was travel in central Italy like 250 years ago?

The answer can be found in “Travels to Tuscany and Northern Lazio” which follows the travels of an important member of the Papal court, Cardinal Henry Stuart, the Duke of York and last member of the exiled English royal family.

Locating the Cardinal’s manuscript diaries was a moment of serendipity, but even more exciting was discovering that some of the places offering hospitality to the Cardinal and his retinue, over two centuries ago, are still providing hospitality today.

Present-day travelers are invited to explore central Italy tracing the Cardinal’s 1776 journey through Northern Lazio, his long, leisurely holidays at the spas and hill towns of Tuscany, and on the road to Bologna and Le Marche. After more than 40 years living in Italy these are the places (and the people) I can heartily recommend to friends and fellow travelers.

Map by Justin Bradshaw

The Royal Cardinal’s Itinerary

This historic “on the road” through central Italy is a perfect companion for a leisurely journey, enjoying hospitality at palaces, villas and spas like those that hosted the Royal Cardinal and his entourage 250 years ago.

Clicking on the links and photos below gives direct access to the websites of our partners - special accommodations in historic villas, palazzi, farmsteads and spas of Central Italy.

Contact the owners of the historic accommodation directly to book your stay and tell them Elegant Etruria sent you. You will be treated like royalty and will find copies of “Travels to Tuscany & Northern Lazio” on hand.

Fontana del Papa - Tolfa

The first stop recommended is a country house located a short drive from Fiumicino airport and Civitavecchia’s port. Set among green, rolling hills dotted with ancient olive trees Fontana del Papa is an excellent introduction to Italy.

Home cooking & Wine courses.

Domus La Quercia

This September Pope Benedict XVI will be staying at the huge, historic monastery complex of La Quercia during his visit to Viterbo and Bagnoregio. For seven centuries this has been a stopping place for high ranking ecclesiastics including Cardinal Henry Stuart who visited in 1776. The church ceilings are decorated with some of the first gold brought back from the Americas. Perfect place for conferences, groups and pilgrims.

website www.domuslaquercia.com

Villa Palazzola is a magnificent estate located at Rocca di Papa, near Ciampino airport on the southern side of Rome. Dramatically perched on the edge of Lake Albano near the Pope’s summer residence, the historic Villa, property of the Venerable English College in Rome, offers a quiet alternative to Rome for pilgrims, travellers, retreats, meetings and weddings. English visitors will feel very much at home here, as would Cardinal Stuart who was Bishop for 30 years in nearby Frascati .

Villa Palazzola

La Torretta Casperia

Take the train from Fiumicino airport and step directly into the past in the car free village of Casperia to enjoy a stay with the Scheda family in their recently restored 15th century palazzetto La Torretta located in the historical center of the romantic medieval village of Casperia . Cardinal’s coat of arms have been found frescoed in the guests’ lounge are now being studied .

Viterbo

Perfect country getaway near train station (Rome-Viterbo line) on the historic pilgrims’ route and surrounded by olive groves. The Sansoni-Cau family will make you –and your children- feel welcome at their biological farm Podere La Branda set on a hillside overlooking the town of Vetralla. The estate is beautifully appointed with well-designed independent cottage apartments, swimming pool, children’s playground and mature enclosed gardens. Perfect for nature lovers, bird watchers with resident donkeys, geese and other animals.

Villa La Cerretana luxury B&B near Viterbo

Villa La Cerretana, set on a hillside near Viterbo, has only recently become a luxury B&B offering 4 suites with views over peony gardens and as far away as Umbria. Among the services offered : a pool pavilion, hot tub and helipad.

Tenuta di Santa Lucia

The Trua di Guardavalle family recently restored the family’s farm estate changing the 19th century silk worm barn into a luxury restaurant and adding 5 elegant suites. The result is Tenuta di Santa Lucia one of the Viterbo area’s nicest places for special dining and a special weekend hideaway for visitors from all over the world.

Locanda La Chioccola - Orte

Locanda La Chioccola located on a hilltop near Orte overlooking the Tiber river valley was one of the first country houses offering hospitality in the Viterbo province and since opening has won a place in many prestigious guidebooks. The multilingual owners Roberto and Maria Cristina have recently added a spa and wellness center which, along with the restaurant and swimming pool , are perfect for guests looking for relaxing getaways.

Villa Chiarini wulf

For easy country living and very special wines, we recommend Villa Chiarini Wulf, a farm estate in the Etruscan countryside near Vetralla. A warm welcome is assured from this international family in renovated country bungalows surrounded by acres of vineyards, oaks and olive groves.

Podere dell’Arco Country Charme Viterbo

A beautifully restored ancient monastery overlooking a typical Viterbese panorama and splendid fields of lavender, Podere dell’Arco Country Charme is a perfect place for exploring surrounding Etruscan sites, for romantic getaways or honeymoons.

Photo by GR Studio

B&B la locanda del riccio Viterbo

B&B "La Locanda del Riccio", is in a small restored medieval palace, that is found in the historical center of Viterbo. The property is about 180 square mt. on three levels.
B&B offers different options: double room, double room single use, queen-sized bed room, studio with queen-sized bed room, all come with private bath, extra beds provided

Casale del Molino- between Montefiascone and Marta, Lake of Bolsena

Casale del Molino is a newly restored private villa in the midst of a 250 acre olive farm on the rolling hills that surround Lake Bolsena. With all amenities for self catering, a private pool and absolute privacy, it makes a perfect summer hideaway for a family of 6 or a group of friends.

Palazzo Monaldeschi, Lubriano between Cività di Bagnoregio and Orvieto

Cività di Bagnoregio, well known to foreign tourists as “ the dying city”, is a stone’s throw across the valley from little Lubriano. From here one has the best view of the calanchi but this little known jewel of a town is rarely visited by outsiders. Here the majestic Baroque Palazzo Monaldeschi , offers several self catering apartments enclosed in its peaceful hanging gardens with swimming pool. Catering for wedding receptions and banquets, private dinners and exclusive meetings for up to 200 persons .

Buriano Country House, Lubriano between Cività di Bagnoregio and Orvieto

Buriano is an ancient country house offering several self-catering apartments and swimming pool on a hilltop between Lazio and Umbria, just outside the town of Lubriano. A former Benedictine convent with a frescoed chapel the Buriano farmhouse estate was first inhabited around the 10^th century. Beautiful views over 40 acres of wheat fields, sunflowers and olive groves all the way to Orvieto make this a perfect unspoilt environment for relaxing holidays.

Castello di Montalto

Castello di Montalto, Castelnuovo Berardegna, Siena

With over a thousand years of history and a spectacular setting, Montalto Castle is a unique place for special events, weddings or a relaxing country holiday. Make your home in one of eight beautifully furnished self-catering apartments, guests of the Coda Nunziante family.

Cardinal Stuart, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Pope Pius II , Michelangeo and many other historic travellers took the waters at thermal baths in Tuscany in their search for wellbeing. The historic hot waters at Bagno Vignoni are still being utilized by modern visitors at the Adler Thermae which offers healing hot pools and wellness according to traditional techniques in modern facilities.

Adler Thermae Bagno Vignoni

Locanda dell’Amorosa - Sinalunga

One of the most romantic country inns in Tuscany is definitely Locanda dell’Amorosa , a hamlet of red brick at the end of a cypress-lined avenue just outside the town of Sinalunga. The Citterio family are proud of their award-winning restaurant, top notch service and exquisitely appointed suites. Perfect place for honeymooners and other VIP guests.

Villa Gamberaia Florence

Near Florence at Settignano the exacting traveller can discover Villa Gamberaia, the ultimate Tuscan villa with splendid gardens overlooking Florence and the Arno valley. The property belonged to noble Zanobi Lapi in the 17th century and the characteristic cypress avenue and other garden features were added by Marchesi Capponi in the 18th century. Nowadays it is a perfect setting for weddings , conferences or as a romantic weekend hideaway.

Albergo Villa Marta - Lucca

Lucca is a well known destination for garden lovers for some of Italy’s famous historic villas are located here: Villa Reale at Marlia, Villa Torrigiani and the Villa Mansi to name just a few. This year the special celebrations for Puccini will draw even more music fans than usual. To make a stay in Lucca even more special we recommend Albergo Villa Marta in a countryside setting but near to the city.

Madonna del Piatto Assisi

Madonna del Piatto , a small inn located in the hills above Assisi, is famous for its hospitality and cooking classes. Guests of Letizia and her multi-lingual family enjoy nearness to central Umbria’s many interesting towns, superb food and magnificent views over Assisi and St. Francis’s basilica .

“Borgo di Acquaiura”

The “Borgo di Acquaiura” is our recommended place to stay in central Umbria near the town of Spoleto. The houses of this former hamlet are set in the cool hills and offer a peaceful escape in beautifully renovated and furnished spaces surrounded by gardens and a swimming pool

Villa San Raffaello Sarnano

Damien and Sharon Conrad warmly welcome visitors to their lovely country villa on the outskirts of the historic hilltown Sarnano in Le Marche. The four well appointed apartments, gorgeous pool and interesting surroundings make Villa San Raffaello an excellent base for relaxing holidays near the Sibillini National Park.

Itineraries

Exploring around Civitavecchia

Etruscan Temple

The Royal Cardinal’s Route

Layer cake of history

Favorite Drives

Fulvio's Recipes

Lifestyle

Notes from Italy

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