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Travels to Tuscany and Northern Lazio

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The Royal Cardinal’s Route

 

What was travel in central Italy like 250 years ago?

 

The answer can be found in “Travels to Tuscany and Northern Lazio” which follows the travels of an important member of the Papal court, Cardinal Henry Stuart, the Duke of York and last member of the exiled English royal family.

 

 

Locating the Cardinal’s manuscript diaries was a moment of serendipity, but even more exciting was discovering that some of the places offering hospitality to the Cardinal and his retinue, over two centuries ago, are still providing hospitality today.

 

Present-day travelers are invited to explore central Italy tracing the Cardinal’s 1776 journey through Northern Lazio, his long, leisurely holidays at the spas and hill towns of Tuscany, and on the road to Bologna and Le Marche. After more than 40 years living in Italy these are the places (and the people) I can heartily recommend to friends and fellow travelers.

 


Map by Justin Bradshaw

 

 

 

The Royal Cardinal’s Itinerary

This historic “on the road” through central Italy is a perfect companion for a leisurely journey, enjoying hospitality at palaces, villas and spas like those that hosted the Royal Cardinal and his entourage 250 years ago.

 

Clicking on the links and photos below gives direct access to the websites of our partners - special accommodations in historic villas, palazzi, farmsteads and spas of Central Italy.

 

Contact the owners of the historic accommodation directly to book your stay and tell them Elegant Etruria sent you. You will be treated like royalty and will find copies of “Travels to Tuscany & Northern Lazio” on hand.

 

Fontana del Papa - Tolfa

  • The first stop recommended is a country house located a short drive from Fiumicino airport and Civitavecchia’s port.  Set among green, rolling hills dotted with ancient olive trees Fontana del Papa is an excellent introduction to Italy.      

Fontana del Papa Junior suite

Home cooking & Wine courses. the pool

 

La Torretta Casperia

  • Take the train from Fiumicino airport and step directly into the past in the car free village of Casperia to enjoy a stay with the Scheda family in their recently restored 15th century palazzetto La Torretta located in the historical center of the romantic medieval village of Casperia . Cardinal’s coat of arms have been found frescoed in the guests’ lounge are now being studied .

 

 

Viterbo

  • Visiting Viterbo in 1776, Cardinal Stuart and his entourage were guests at the Bishop’s villa on the Palanzana hill and took day trips to visit Montefiascone where his parents were married in 1719, Vetralla (link to article), Villa Lante gardens and Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, the original pentagon.
 

 

 Villa La Cerretana  luxury B&B near Viterbo

Villa La Cerretana, set on a hillside near Viterbo,  has only  recently become a luxury  B&B offering 4 suites  with  views over  peony gardens and as far away as Umbria.  Among the services offered : a pool  pavilion, hot tub and   helipad. 

 

 

 

 Tenuta di Santa Lucia  -

  • The Trua di Guardavalle family  recently  restored the family’s farm estate  changing the 19th century silk worm barn into a luxury restaurant and adding 5  elegant  suites.  The result is Tenuta di Santa Lucia  one of the Viterbo area’s nicest places for special dining  and a special weekend  hideaway for visitors from all over the world.   

 

Locanda La Chioccola - Orte

  • Locanda La Chioccola  located on a hilltop  near Orte overlooking the  Tiber river  valley  was one of the first  country houses offering hospitality  in the Viterbo province and   since opening  has won a place in many  prestigious guidebooks.    The multilingual owners  Roberto and Maria Cristina have recently added a spa and wellness center  which, along with the restaurant  and swimming pool , are perfect for  guests looking for relaxing getaways. 

 

 

Villa Hortensiae Orte -Soriano al Cimino

  • For family groups we recommend child-friendly Villa Hortensiae in a valley near Orte and Soriano nel Cimino. It boasts a lovely pool and is surrounded by gardens yet close to the highway and the Orte train station.
 

 

Antica Locanda della Via Francigena Vetralla

  • Just outside Vetralla along  the ancient pilgrims' route, travelers are warmly welcomed at the Antica Locanda della Via Francigena, set in tranquil gardens and surrounded by nature, Etruscan sites and hot baths.  See the article "Roman road". Apartments with kitchen corners are perfect for families.
 

 

Il Mio Porto Tranquillo Vetralla

  • For those who prefer to be in a town setting, we recommend a lovely B&B known as Il Mio Porto Tranquillo (my safe haven) in the center of Vetralla. Set in a garden with off street parking, it is perfect also for those who do not want to drive. Hearty home made breakfasts are served before the open fire by owner Signora Lia . The suites are decorated elegantly with oil paintings of the artist Pia Guzman.

 

 

Villa Chiarini wulf 

  • For easy country living and very special wines, we recommend  Villa Chiarini Wulf,  a farm estate  in the Etruscan countryside near Vetralla.  A warm welcome  is assured from this  international family  in  renovated country bungalows  surrounded by acres  of vineyards, oaks and olive groves.

 

 

Podere dell’Arco Country Charme Viterbo

  • A beautifully restored  ancient monastery overlooking  a typical Viterbese panorama  and splendid fields of lavender, Podere dell’Arco Country Charme is   a perfect place for exploring surrounding Etruscan sites, for romantic getaways or honeymoons.  
 

Photo by GR Studio  

 

B&B.la locanda del riccio Viterbo

  • B&B "La Locanda del Riccio", is in a small restored medieval palace, that is found in the historical center of Viterbo. The property is about 180 square mt. on three levels.
    B&B offers different options: double room, double room single use, queen-sized bed room, studio with queen-sized bed room, all come with private bath, extra beds provided

 

Villa Farinella Bagnaia

  • Staying at Villa Farinella, set in a  private  park between  Viterbo and Bagnaia is like going back in time for the furnishings, décor and atmosphere are authentic early 19th century.  The homey villa, Viterbo’s first B&B, has an independent garden apartment for longer stays.  

 

 

Al Gallo Tuscania 

  • Within the city walls of Tuscania discerning guests and gastronomes find a haven at Al Gallo, an elegant hotel and restaurant tucked in one of the town’s side streets. Known as Toscanella until recently, the town is famous for its Etruscan sites , magnificent churches and the ancient Via Clodia. Your hostess, Signora Perla welcomes diners and guests to the 16th century palazzetto with its red and white checkered dining room,  and the newly opened winter garden lounge.

 

Castello di Proceno

  • Perched on a hill top on the border between Lazio and Tuscany, Proceno was once part of the land governed by an Irish family . The Cecchini Bisoni family have spent many years restoring and decorating the cozy apartments in the historic buildings surrounding the Castello di Proceno castle tower and keep. Now the castle complex boasts an enoteca, a restaurant and swimming pool.

 

 

Il Tesoro Torre Alfina

  • Where   Lazio, Tuscany and Umbria meet  we find the  castle town of  Torre Alfina  and nearby  the lovely agriturismo  Il Tesoro, where  Rita and her family offer a warm welcome to this farm holiday estate.  Next to the traditional farm décor, tools, handmade brick floors and excellent country cuisine the modern touches of a swimming pool and a modern glass “hay barn” where events, yoga classes and parties are held.

 

Podere Salicotto Buonconvento

  • The Via Cassia, also known as the Via Franchigena passes into Tuscany at Centeno, just 100 miles from Rome and an excellent place to pause is at Podere Salicotto not far from the brick walled town of Buonconvento. Newly restored by a Milanese couple, Silvia and Paolo, it is perfect for city dwellers who wish to revel in the quietness of the countryside. The Cardinal would have enjoyed the sailing and ballooning excursions

 

 

Terre di Nano  Monticchiello

  • Near the hamlet of Monticchiello in the Val d’Orcia , the  heart of Tuscany,  a luxury country house and agricultural estate, Terre di Nano offers 8  lovely apartments for truly relaxing holidays around the pool. For the more ambitious there are  cooking and wine classes, visits to the wine cellars, and in November  one can help with the  olive harvest. The estate  is a perfect setting for  small weddings. 

 

 

Sant’Antonio Montepulciano

  • Futher along the pilgrim’s way, on the hill facing Montepulciano a Dutch/Italian family have created a hideaway for international visitors with their lovely apartments of Sant’Antonio located within what was originally a 12th century Franciscan convent. Nico speaks many languages making the Sant’Antonio the refuge of visitors from all over the globe.

 

Adler Thermae Bagno Vignoni

  • Cardinal Stuart, Lorenzo the Magnificent, Pope Pius II , Michelangeo and many other historic travellers took the waters at thermal baths in Tuscany in their search for wellbeing. The historic hot waters at Bagno Vignoni are still being utilized by modern visitors at the Adler Thermae which offers healing hot pools and wellness according to traditional techniques in modern facilities.

 

 

 

Locanda dell’Amorosa - Sinalunga

  • One of the most romantic country inns in Tuscany is definitely Locanda dell’Amorosa , a hamlet of red brick  at the end of a cypress-lined avenue just outside the town of Sinalunga. The Citterio family are proud of their award-winning restaurant, top notch service and  exquisitely appointed  suites. Perfect place for honeymooners and  other VIP guests.  

 

 

Villa Gamberaia Florence

  • Near Florence at Settignano the exacting traveller can discover Villa Gamberaia, the ultimate Tuscan villa with splendid gardens overlooking Florence and the Arno valley. The property belonged to noble Zanobi Lapi in the 17th century and the characteristic cypress avenue and other garden features were added by Marchesi Capponi in the 18th century. Nowadays it is a perfect setting for weddings , conferences or as a romantic weekend hideaway.

 

 

Albergo Villa Marta - Lucca

  • Lucca is a well known destination for garden lovers for some of Italy’s famous  historic villas are located here: Villa Reale at Marlia, Villa Torrigiani  and the Villa Mansi to name just a few. This year the special celebrations for Puccini will draw  even more music fans  than usual.  To  make a stay in Lucca even more special we recommend  Albergo Villa Marta  in a countryside setting but near to the city.

 

 

Madonna del Piatto Assisi 

  • Madonna del Piatto ,  a small  inn located in the hills above Assisi, is famous for its hospitality and cooking classes. Guests of Letizia and her multi-lingual family  enjoy  nearness to central Umbria’s many interesting towns, superb food and  magnificent views  over Assisi and  St. Francis’s basilica .  

    

 

 Borgo di Acquaiura

The Borgo di Acquaiura  is our recommended  place to stay in  central Umbria near  the town of   Spoleto. The houses of this  former hamlet  are set  in the cool hills and offer a peaceful escape in  beautifully renovated and furnished  spaces surrounded by gardens and a swimming pool

 

Genius Loci Country Inn  Montefalco Bevagna

  • Situated atop its sprawling vineyard, Genius Loci Country Inn  celebrates  the  unspoiled and timeless landscape  of Umbria with its historical architecture,  panoramic pool, breathtaking views and friendly hospitality.  Located between Bevagna and Montefalco on the Strada del Sagrantino, this upscale inn boasts a refined beauty and tranquillity aimed to delight the discerning traveller.  Family owned and managed, the inn is the stunning result of a detailed restoration of an 1880's farmhouse with eight luxurious "rooms with a view" of Assisi, Spello and Montefalco.  

 

 

Hotel Vittoria  Pesaro

  • From Bologna the Cardinal’s entourage travelled over the Appenines to the Adriatic coast. He would have felt at home at Pesaro’s Hotel Vittoria, formerly a private casino where distinguished guests of the past have included statesmen, writers, actors, millionaires and musicians.

 

 

 Villa San Raffaello Sarnano

  • Damien and Sharon Conrad warmly welcome visitors to their lovely country villa on the outskirts of the historic hilltown Sarnano in Le Marche. The four well appointed apartments, gorgeous pool and interesting surroundings make Villa San Raffaello an excellent base for relaxing holidays near the Sibillini National Park.

 

 

San Domenico Urbino

  • The route follows the coast and turns inland after a visit of Ancona. Winding through the beautiful hills of Le Marche it passes through Urbino where travellers can enjoy a stay at San Domenico, a monastery dating from the 14th century , located directly in front of the Ducal Palace. A plaque on the wall of the cloister records the visit of James II, the Cardinal’s father, who stayed here during the early years of his exiled travels.

 

 

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Itineraries

The Royal Cardinal’s Route
Hawthorne Bolsena
Etruscan Temple
Tarquinia
Fountains of Viterbo
Layer cake of history
Favorite Drives
Italian Reading list
Latest Newsletter
Fulvio's Recipes
Lifestyle
Notes from Italy
 

 

Italian Version

Biografia
La Saga dei Denham
Rassegna Stampa
Affreschi Exploring Etruria

Travels to Tuscany & Northern Lazio

 

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