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Viterbo: A Connoisseur's
guide
M.J.Cryan
Once a
papal city, Viterbo offers delights for history lovers,
antiques enthusiasts and gastronomes
 Viterbo
deserves an unhurried visit from art lovers, gastronomes and
historians.
The
connoisseur’s visit must include a walk through the medieval
quarter of S. Pellegrino; so perfect is this architectural
ensemble that it is often used as a movie set.
Anglo-Saxons ask to see the church in Piazza del Gesù which
was the scene of the murder of Henry, Duke of Cornwall, and
cousin of King Edward I. He was killed in 1272 by Guy and
Simon de Montfort to revenge the murder of their father.
Portuguese
visitors to Viterbo always make a stop at the black and
white striped cathedral S. Lorenzo which dates from the 12th
century with 16th century and post-war touch-ups.
Here they admire the magnificent cosmatesque floors and the
tomb of Pope John XXI, the only Portuguese pope who died
when the floor of his room collapsed.
Medieval
history comes alive when one stands near S. Maria Nuova with
its outdoor pulpit where St. Thomas Aquinas preached to the
crowds and inside the papal palace when one glances up to
the “new” roof. The original one was removed in the 1200’s
during the first conclave in Viterbo to elect a new pope.
The
cardinals were locked (cum clave, hence the word conclave)
inside the palace next the roof was removed to help speed up
the election of the new pope and then in desperation the
cardinals’ food (and wine) supply was reduced. It was 33
months before Gregory X was finally elected as the new pope.
To fully
understand the spirit of Viterbo one must participate in the
feast on September 3rd in honor of the city’s
patron, S. Rosa whose statue crowns the entrance to the city
at Porta Romana. In most of Italy, feasts commemorate the
antique rivalry between sections of a city, as in Siena’s
Palio and Pisa’s Gioco del Ponte. The feast of S.
Rosa instead, finds the populace united to cheer on the
local heroes, the facchini or Porters of S. Rosa, as
they perform their superhuman task of transporting the
30-meter high illuminated tower honouring the saint, through
the city’s darkened streets. A visit to the museum in S.
Pellegrino gives an idea of the task the facchini
have proudly performed since the first macchina/tower
was transported in 1258.
The
procession route along the Corso is also the scene of the
evening passeggiata when the young people from the
entire province crowd around the fountain in Piazza delle
Erbe while their elders take an aperitif in the historic
(1493) Caffè Schenardi.
An
inexpensive way to travel to Viterbo from Rome is by train
from either Roma Nord station (Piazzale Flaminio) or St.
Peter’s.
Where to sleep:
We recommend the charming
B&B Il Riccio set
on a quiet street near the passage of the Historic
Procession "
The former
route is perfect for railway fans who like slow travel since
the old-fashioned train passes through a series of
picturesque towns including Civita Castellana, Fabrica di
Roma, Vignanello, Soriano and Bagnaia before finally
arriving to Viterbo’s Roma Nord station. The train from St.
Peter’s (or Ostiense station) plies between the capital and
northern suburbs such as Olgiata, Cesano and Bracciano
before heading further north to Viterbo.
Both
trains use the BIRG ticket system: a 9 euro daily ticket
gives passengers full use of the regional transport system
including Rome’s metro and buses.
Viterbo
Viterbo, capital city of the
province (population 72,000) deserves an unhurried visit to
appreciate the perfectly preserved medieval quarter, city
walls, fountains and piazza and the palazzo where the papal
court held the first conclave in the 13th
century.
The surroundings are blessed
with hot springs, Renaissance palazzo and gardens, lakes and
hill towns rich in history, festivals and traditions. The
area’s excellent wines, olive oil and other products are
celebrated at festivals throughout the year.
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